Travessia Complexo Marumbi


A travessia passou por 5 picos:

-No primeiro dia:

  • Rochedinho

-No segundo dia:

  • Abrolhos
  • Ponta do tigre
  • Gigante
  • Olimpo

Conjunto Marumbi 2

Percorreu-se a trilha azul (Rochedinho), vermelha (Noroeste) e branca (Frontal).

No primeiro dia, descemos no aeroporto Afonso Pena em Curitiba, fomos com o translado até a rodoferroviária no centro da mesma capital paranaense, para então tomarmos o trem Curitiba-Paranaguá até a estação “MARUMBI”. Previsão de chegada é algo em torno de 10h, porém sofremos atrasos chegando às 11h.

Desde a vila Marumbi fizemos uma caminhada pelos trilhos, algo em torno de 500m até o viaduto famoso do Carvalho, em frente ao túnel 5; e na sequência realizamos nossa primeira caminhada para o Rochedinho, trilha de nível fácil que pode ser realizada em 1 hora, marcação azul. No topo da mesma se vê a formação do “cachorro”, trechos da linha férrea, bem como todo maciço famoso junto da Serra.

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Ao término, descemos uma trilha colonial até Engenheiro Lange e após uma outra estrada até Porto de Cima, onde estaria nosso pouso.

No dia seguinte acordamos às 4h, para sairmos e iniciarmos a caminhada às 5h. Partimos de  Porto de Cima, o que nos tomaria umas 2h de caminhada até estação Marumbi, aproximadamente 9km em subida leve. Chegamos a base do complexo ao amanhecer, o que proporcionou fotos lindas. Para se chegar a base, ou em trem, ou de carro 4×4 até Estação Eng Lange com mais 1km de trilha colonial até a Estação Marumbi, no resto, somente a pé mesmo.

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Chegando na estação Marumbi, base do complexo, as alternativas de trilhas liberadas durante nossa visita eram apenas duas (para os picos mais altos); ou a trilha vermelha (noroeste), ou a trilha branca (frontal). Resolvemos subir uma e descer a outra.

Subimos a noroeste de nível “pesado” (que a meu ver, era mais simples que a branca de nível “médio-pesado”). Eu tive mais dificuldade com o fator ferratas, em excesso na trilha branca, exatamente por não alcançá-las, uma vez que meço 1,50m.

Iniciando a Trilha Noroeste de cor vermelha, a mesma possui um acesso primário ao pico de Abrolhos, opcional, com uma bifuração de acesso. Chegava-se nessa bifurcação com aproximadamente 1h30, após aguardamos os amigos decidimos ir ao ataque deste primeiro cume, que levou mais 30 minutos e o encontro com as primeiras vias ferratas. Em 2 horas de trilhas chegavamos a 1280m, pico dos Abrolhos.

Quando chegamos no primeiro livro de cume, a vista estava 100% aberta. Céu totalmente limpo e claro, e a visão compensou muito, era um extra de 1h no bate e volta, mas realmente inigualável. Fiquei uns 10 minutos sozinha gritando Eco naquela imensidão. A vista é completa da via férrea (túneis e viadutos) e do desfiladeiros com a Torre dos Sinos. Fora o maciço do complexo justaposto às costas de Abrolhos.

Retornamos para a bifurcação e iniciamos o ataque a Ponta do Tigre, ali se inicia o Vale das Lágrimas ou Desfiladeiro das Lágrimas, vegetação bem verde que se assemelha a um escoamento pluvial (provável nas fortes chuvas). Com formação de um túnel rochoso, é um trecho bem técnico, íngreme com algumas descidas de água e novamente mais ferratas. Quando quase se chega ao topo, passamos por dentro de algumas pedras suspensas e paredões rochosos, que honestamente parecem ter sido desenhados a mão.

Cume da Ponta do Tigre (1400m), encontramos outros grupos também na travessia, até o 3G do celular funcionava,  e é o momento do primeiro êxtase e pausa lanche. Já conseguimos ver Paranaguá, Antonina, o Oceano e muita coisa indescritível.

O próximo ataque é Olimpo até lá se passa pelo Gigante com 1497m, entre algumas subidas e descidas, cordas e charco, a trilha se une a trilha branca/frontal atingindo nosso pico máximo “o Olimpo” com 1539m.

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Após o gozo do ponto máximo, estimamos entre 3h a 4h para a descida. Acabei realizando em 3h em um ritmo sem descanso. Porém com certa dificuldade para descer a trilha frontal, branca, em razão da minha estatura.

Conseguir alcançar as ferratas eram movimentos bem limitados no meu caso, dos quais necessitei de auxílio e orientação; algumas eram negativas, sem corda ou equipamento de segurança, o jeito era ter todo cuidado possível.

Quase no final da descida branca chegamos ao rio taquaral e cachoeira dos marumbistas com direito a um banho, antes do anoitecer. Com mais 45min finalizamos a trilha branca retornando a estação Marumbi. O desgaste era grande, mas não podíamos esquecer que haviam ainda os últimos 9km de descida em estrada até Porto de Cima.

Demoramos 15h em tempo bruto para realizar todo trajeto, com as pausas; tempo líquido ficou algo em torno de 12h saindo e retornando a Porto de cima. Conforme figura abaixo.

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E 8h de tempo líquido apenas de travessia Marumbi saindo e retornando a Eng Lange.

https://www.facebook.com/rzortea/videos/10210865797313864/
Fomos na páscoa, segunda semana de abril, e o tempo colaborou consideravelmente.

Marumbi vale muito! Aprovado e recomendado!

Agradeço especialmente ao Clunc e ao Sol de Indiada por nos ter proporcionado essa experiência incrível!

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P.s. Ainda deu para conhecer novos aventureiros amigos! Eu intrusa na foto da galera dos Sem Limites!


A mochila utilizada foi a REV6 da Osprey

Inka Trail – English Version

Hi adventurers!

Início da Trilha Inca km82

Inca Trail was one of my best adventures and one of the nicest for sure !!

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The Inca trail is one of the parts of the Inca roads, which indicate all who came to Cusco during the Inca Empire. The most famous and searched by hikers made by me and then reported here, was the one who was heading the Lost City: Machu Picchu or so Old Mountain. It starts at km 82 (left bank of the Urubamba River) which runs 42km until the sun gate.

I decided to face this challenge more for a visual pleasure than any other. You are advised to arrive at least 2 days in advance to Cusco and stay there until get used to the altitude. Yes, this is normal, and it is given the name “Soroche” or mountain sickness. The trail cannot be held individually and hiring a local guide is required. It is also advisable to make your reservation with some anticipation, because as demand is high and jobs are limited, the vacancies are selling fast. Check the authorized guides and if your booking was successful in the official tourism site.

I ended up doing the trail of four days, the traditional. And on the 5th day I went up the Huayna Picchu mountain (that we always see in the background of traditional pictures). During the trail there are toilets and showers, but the water is cold (practically a thaw of the mountains), and as the night cools much, I advise taking bath before gets dark, or do as the Irish who have spent five days without bath. If you feel cold, drink coca tea, I was addicted on it because it took away my mountain sickness and helped a lot to heat up. It was served at any time. As we got up very early and we got quite tired, barely getting dark already and we were going to sleep. One evening I decided to go to the bathroom, and when I looked at the sky, completely starry, I had one of the most beautiful images of my life. Enjoy every moment, because there is enough time for that. There will be stops, moments for photos, social integration, etc. I was alone and I met a lot of friends, Peru in my point of view was super safe.

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The trail is really nice, there are porters who carry everything for you except your personal equipment (sleeping bag, insulation and clothing) , moreover: tents , food … everything with them . It is important to recognize the efforts of these people and know that the tip we left at the end is extremely relevant to their work, therefore: save a decent amount for the working group. If you miss something along the way, like water and snacks, in the first kms you’ll find some sales (at twice the price). So plan everything well. But also your guide will tell you all.

In the last track day we woke up 3 am to stay on line at the park entrance. Everyone wants to be the first to enter because the doors open 5pm only (for trackers), and around 6am is the time of sunrise. Yes, only those who make the trail are blessed for this moment. As a result there are so many people waiting the opening time, and after they run off desperately to early terminate the track and get to the peak to sight Machu Picchu – yes I was one . When you reach the Sun Gate, the dawn is then awaited a silence takes care of all the long-awaited moment when the sun perfectly illuminate the lost city (depending on the solstice). The light goes perfectly between the rock columns, famous sun gate, enlightening perfectly the curves of Machu Picchu. Amazing and perfect. After that time you will feel blessed and understand religiosity cultivated by the Incas gods.

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I advise to stay one night in the pueblo after the trail and enjoy the aguas calientes. So I left Huayna Picchu for climb on the 5th day, before returning to Cusco. If you are well trained, you can make the ascent in less than 30 minutes, despite being calculated 1h. So enjoy and make the full turn!

On the way back look VISTADOME train, it has panoramic windows and meals on board, the price difference is small, but it will leave you more close to Cusco, and is also more comfortable, since this trip is tiring too (trains go at 40 km/h), but you cannot deny that the look of the valley and the river Urubamba are amazing!And don’t worry if you don’t speak Spanish very well, Peruvians are so grateful for your presence.

Don’t worry Everyone is going to respect you and your pace, it is tourism, not competition. In Cusco there is the city historic tour, it takes you to protected neighboring communities. And when I was in Lima, I went to Paracas (round trip on the same day), amazing!

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The airport of Lima has many direct flights by Avianca. Look sites from Avianca and Taca, they sometimes have different prices but is the same service. Also there are multi-city pass that allows you to stay on your connection cities. I stopped in Lima and stayed there four days, the same fare. Look for a hostel in the Miraflores neighborhood. I stayed at the Dragonfly , they have the own beer! The BRT work very well there, and they call for metro, it takes you to the center with security, otherwise there is a mini- vans very strange but who works well in the neighborhood.

Try Inca Kola, I love it! And Pisco Sour too. Cuy are the guinea pigs and is a traditional dish there. Nice trip!

If you want to see more pictures:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.337178603135459.1073741832.328355864017733&type=3&uploaded=74

Portuguese version:

https://rxplorer.wordpress.com/2014/11/10/trilha-inca-inka-trail/

Mount Roraima – Tepuy Roraima

Mount Roraima

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Tepuy Roraima in Spanish is the highest of the Pakaraima chain of tepuy plateau in South America.

Tepuy is a table-top mountain or mesa found in the Guiana Highlands of South America, especially in Venezuela and western Guyana. The word tepui means “house of the gods” in the native tongue of the Pemon, the indigenous people who inhabit the Gran Sabana. They are typically composed of sheer blocks of Precambrian quartz arenite sandstone that rise abruptly from the jungle, giving rise to spectacular natural scenery.

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The tabletop mountains of the park are considered some of the oldest geological formations on Earth, dating back to some two billion years ago. The high rainfall promoted the formation of pseudocarstes and numerous caves, besides the soil leaching process . Many of the species found on Roraima are unique to the plateau. The flora adapted to climate and geological conditions with a high degree of endemism, where there are several species of carnivorous plants, which take from the insects the nutrients missing in the soil. The fauna is also marked by a sharp endemism, especially among reptiles and amphibians. This environment is protected in Venezuelan territory by the Canaima National Park and in Brazil by the Mount Roraima National Park.

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Your name “RORAIMA” consists of the words of the Pemon language “RORO” meaning green-blue e “IMA” meaning large, this would translate ” Great green-blue ” although most pemones Roraima refers to as ” The mother of all waters “probably due to the dramatic decline in multiple cascades down the walls when passing rain.  Access is practically unique and became from Venezuelan territory, which has 85% of the Roraima tepuy surface. Although you find tourist companies in the three territories, the most famous are the Venezuelan one, who has as guides the pemon natives. You find difference between Venezuelan and Brazilian tour in the number of days. Venezuelan has 6D, and Brazilian 8D that take you until Brazilian border. The surface area of the mount is huge, and to get to places like the line bord and the Proa, it takes more days upon tepuy.

I went with a Venezuelan company and I had the opportunity to be in the middle of a wonderful adventurous group. I also went by Venezuelan territory. I stopped in Caracas, Puerto Ordaz and from there I made a land transfer of 10 hours going through the gran sabana. The transfer was very beautiful but quite tiring (including return), however necessary for this way. If you want to go to Angel Falls and canaima park this is the best access. But if you going just to the roraima mount, perhaps access by Brazilian territory is less tiring having a nearest airport, only 3 hours (Boa Vista).

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Starting trekking – Day 1: We left early Santa Elena and made a stop at a duty free by recommendation of our guide for buying liqueurs and distillates to help on cold nights (yes! help a lot!). After this we took the road, about one hour, until the town of Paraitepuy (indigenous community) passing of San Francisco de Yuruaní. Upon reaching Paraitepuy, we still had time to brunch and do the final adjustments before start. In this first day of walking, we began descending from an altitude of 1200 m to 1000 m in Tok River , the tour took about five hours with the crossing of some rivers. At night we have dinner and overnight for the first time under the starry sky of La Gran Sabana.

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Second day was perfect to enjoying a walk through the Gran Savana which offers endless opportunities to appreciate nature and for lovers of photography. We climb up to the base camp at 1870 meters, where we will had time to freshen up in a nearby stream while our guides prepared a hot meal.  Again amazing views, including at night.

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Day 3: It is probably the hardest day, but surely that gives more satisfaction. We start to climb through numerous waterfalls. Very important is to have a good breakfast for some energy for trekking and start the attack to the summit of Roraima.

You will pass under a waterfall called “Passo de las Lacrimas” especially if there has been recent rainfall, the scenary is amazing!

See Waterfall video on the link:

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We enter into a dense jungle vegetation, overwhelming beauty and habitat of various species of birds that can hopefully spot . Upon reaching the summit, we can see extraordinary rock formations as “The Flying Turtle”. Finally the guide takes us up to our “hotel” as it is commonly called the caves used to establish camps at the summit. Actually, the Roraima is a compilation of amazing and unexpected views (difficult to describe), many refer to it as being in “another planet “, I quote as an “alien scenario”.In addition there are many extraordinary and unique locations, the best to visit are “The Maverick ” or ” the Chariot ” the highest point of Roraima, “the Crystal Valley”, the Jacuzzi , “La Cueva Guácharo “, the Window (La Ventana),”La Catedral” or even further afield as the “Triple point ” border between Guyana , Brazil and Venezuela. At 5nd day, we descend for about seven hours from the summit to the Tök or Kuken rivers. We can always look back to enjoy the views of the majestic Roraima and Kukenan. Walk is dividing into two parts, the descent down the ramp to the base camp, with a break and a fast lunch, then the second untill the rivers.

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A native told me that kuken river (not kukenan, wrong transcription) means dirty due to the strong flow mixing the sediment at the mouth of river, and kukenan who inspired the animation film Up, is referred to the place as Mount Matawi-Kukenán (that means “want to die” or “suicide spot”), a sacred place, because the mount guard the spirits of the Pemon warriors, who were thrown off after the loss to the Indians Macuxis in secular battles for possession of the land. These spirits, to be harassed, unleash their wrath and are responsible for the disappearance of tourists who dare to face it.

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Arriving to the end you can finally drink a good and cold beer at the bodegas!

You can find more pics at:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.333201356866517.1073741831.328355864017733&type=1

And also the portuguese version:

https://rxplorer.wordpress.com/2014/12/03/monte-roraima-versao-portugues/

1. For those who wish , I went with the Araguato Expeditions operator http://www.araguato.org/ indicated by Lonely Planet and Rough Guides they use the tour Backpackers services.

2. My aunt asked me about the mini frogs … yes they do exist! And they are very small and are camouflaged in black rock, since they may be black too, all care to not step on them, and they are not poisonous lol

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3. The hostel that I stayed in Santa Elena were Los Pinos, the owner is a German guy , so you can imagine, really good!